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The Monsal Trail: Millers Dale Station to Bakewell

Walked by: Paul Whydall, Phil Mullarkey

Start: Millers Dale Station, OS Grid 414323,373448 Map

Finish: Bakewell Station, Station Road, east of Bakewell town centre, OS grid 410500,372500 Map

Weather: Snow but with sun in patches

Good points: Mosnal Head Viaduct

Bad points: Detours (muddy cow fields and paths)

Facilities: Monsal Head (pub) and Bakewell town centre

Ascent: Nil – disused railway line. Small ascent hardly noticeable

Distance: 7 miles (took 6 hours to walk)

Introduction into the Monsal Trail
A disused railway converted to a track for walkers, cyclists, horse riders and less active people, including those in wheelchairs. It runs for 8.5 miles between Topley Pike, near Buxton, and Coombs viaduct, a mile south-east of Bakewell. Where tunnels are closed, alternative paths are available, although these are not suitable for disabled people. Car parks are provided at former stations at Bakewell and Millers dale, both of which give level access onto the trail. The section from Bakewell to Little Longstone is suitable for cyclists and horse riders. Access for disabled people is available at Bakewell Station, either south for one mile or north to the closed Headstone Tunnel near Little Longstone, a distance of about 3.5 miles. Level access is also available from Miller’s Dale Station, either for half a mile west or 2 miles east. Monsal Head, standing high above the dale, affords the best viewpoint for admiring Monsal Dale. The great railway viaduct seen in this picture once carried trains to Buxton but after the line was closed it was taken over by the Peak Planning Board, and it now carries the Monsal Trail, from which the walker can overlook the dale. The many tunnels along the Trail are closed, but most are circumvented by paths. My walk starts from Bakewell Station and continues along the trail thought the closed tunnels and past Monsal Head and Millers Dale.

History

Opened 1849 Matlock - Rowsley, 1862 Rowsley - Hassop, 1863 Hassop - Buxton

Closed (local Pass) 1967, (Gds) 1968

Stations Bakewell; Hassop (closed 1942); Longstone renamed 1913 Great Longstone for Ashford (closed 1962); Monsal Dale (opened 1866 closed 1959); Millers Dale; Blackwell Mill (staff halt opened 1874)

Signal boxes Bakewell, Hassop, Great Longstone (closed 1962), Monsal Dale, Millers Dale Lime Coy’s Siding, Millers Dale Station, East Buxton Lime Sidings, Millers Dale Junction.

Bakewell Station The station buildings still survive, perched high above the town due to the alignment that the railway was forced to take. This station could be particularly busy, particularly on the famous Bakewell agricultural show day. A camping coach also used to be sited at the station, this later saw service at Aberystwyth with the Vale of Rheidol Railway (Static use!) until the 1980s. Ridged canopies existed over the platforms, and a goods shed and cattle dock.

Hassop Station A minor station on the line, built, it is said to serve the Duke of Devonshire at Chatsworth House, as the Duke of Rutland in Haddon Hall had a station at Bakewell! Closed for passengers early in 1942. The station is still in existence, used as a bookshop.

Great Longstone Station 'Tudor style' buildings, built to serve the local village, which still survive. Originally called Thornbridge, after the nearby Hall, a residence of a one time Midland Railway Director, but near the village of Great Longstone.

Monsal Dale Station Made famous by Ruskin, who rued its construction poetically, an elegant, though much repaired, viaduct spans the gorge of the River Wye, just after the railway emerges from the 533 yard Headstone Tunnel.

Millers Dale Station Millers Dale station was an interchange, and had two up and two down platforms for mainline trains going through to Manchester, or south to Derby, and a platform for branch line trains from here to Buxton. In later years these were operated by a push pull service, to save running round.

Heritage Railway

At present Peak Rail run services between Matlock Riverside and Rowsley but have plans to re-open the line though to Peak Forest Junction and to continue into Buxton over the present freight only line. Joint use of Matlock station from Autumn 2004 will see Peak Rail using the disused down platform and the closure of their temporary Riverside station.

Reopening Proposal by Derbyshire County Council

A feasibility study was made in 2002 to see if it was viable to re-open the line between Matlock station and Buxton and onwards to Manchester. The estimated cost to re-open the line is between £80-£100 million). Lord Edward Manors, owner of Haddon Hall, has objected on the grounds that vibration could damage the halls foundations. To read the feasibility study click here to be taken to the Derbyshire County Council website or to read the two page document about the re-opening of the line produced by the County Council click here.

Route - today

Matlock - Rowsley (3 miles)

Peak Rails’ Matlock Riverside station is about a quarter of a mile North West of Matlock station where Central Train’s services from Derby terminate but the two are physically connected. At Northwood, one mile south of Rowsley, track has been laid to the old shed site where a new shed is being erected.

Rowsley - Buxton Jn (13miles)

The two miles between Rowsley and Coombs Road viaduct, including Haddon tunnel, is on private land owned by Haddon Estates. The nine miles from Coombs Road to Blackwell Mill is owned by the Peak National Park and most of the track bed has been converted into a walk and cycle way called the Monsal Trail. North of Great Longstone there are six tunnels, the first four of which have secure locked gates so the trail is diverted away from the line at three locations. Five times a year, however, Peak Park Rangers take parties from Bakewell to Blackwell Mill through the locked tunnels. The cutting approaching Headstone tunnel is a SSSI (site of special scientific interest) so an additional locked gate is provided 100yds south of the tunnel entrance. Our walk will walk under the tunnels and past the SSSI site near Headstone in the presence of a peak ranger.

Station relics (except Peak Rail) - Matlock still open (Derby - Matlock line) but the 1872 built MR goods shed is used as an engine shed by Peak Rail; Rowsley (1st) original 1849 Grade ll listed station still in existence but unoccupied 1997; Bakewell station buildings offices for Codel Combustion, platforms filed in, station approach car park and industrial units, goods shed occupied; Hassop station buildings bookshop, part of platform, goods ramp, station house residence; Great Longstone whole of station with platforms complete - buildings residence; Monsal Dale platform visible, Millers Dale up platforms, buildings Rangers office and toilets, approach car park; station house residence.

Bridges - virtually all bridges intact including; Headstone viaduct 72ft high Monsal, Millers Dale twin viaducts (GR139733) - the north viaduct is listed.

Tunnels - Headstone 533yds intact but locked, Cressbrook 471yds intact but locked, Litton 515yds intact but locked; Chee Tor No.1 401yds intact but locked; Chee Tor No.2 94yds open to the public, Rusher Cutting 121yds open to the public. Our walk explores the tunnels.

Where to start

The trail starts at Millers Dale station where we were greeted by a flurry of snow, would this snow fall follow us on our journey to Bakewell? who knows....

Millers Dale has facilities, toilets, information boards with information on the local area and the railways and places for a picnic. After a break we group together again and continue the last part of the walk to tunnel four and the finish at Wye Dale.

Old pictures of Millers Dale station

Route

Pictures looking southbound (note the grey clouds)

Picture of Millers Dale Station

We commence our walk, by walking over a rather impressive bridge which crosses over the river and a road. The bridge on the left of us is not used and is blocked off at both ends, we walk down the northbound bridge.

Millers Dale is the last station (or the first station if your starting your walk here like us) before the junction between the branch to Buxton, or the main line to Manchester. Twin iron viaducts before the station tower above the River Wye. The first of these built with the opening of the line, the second from the turn of the century when the station was enlarged to cater for increased traffic. Millers Dale station was an interchange, and had two up and two down platforms for mainline trains going through to Manchester, or south to Derby, and a platform for branch line trains from here to Buxton. In later years these were operated by a push pull service, to save running round. Now, the station buildings offer facilities such as; toilets, information boards with information on the local area and the railways and places for a picnic. After a break we group together again and continue the last part of the walk to tunnel four and the finish at Wye Dale.

It was not a long journey to Litton Mill and our first detour. Before taking the detour path passing along Litton Mill, we walked towards the first tunnel and after taking a few pictures we headed back and follows the detour path, passing over the river once again and walking past Litton Mill. It is difficult to know which way we should walk, no signs, no one to ask either and after trail and error, we walked past the impressive mill and joined the path along the river once again.

Picture of Litton Mill (note the clear blue sky)

After joining the path alongside the river we encountered a few "problems", the river had burst its banks, the path begun to be flooded in places and then later on totally covered in a foot deep in water.

Pictures of the swollen river, (where does the river end and the path start????)

Half way we met two stranded walkers in their middle ages, drinking a hot drink pondering if to continue their walk towards Millers Dale (in the opposite direction we were walking) Phil offered some re-assuring words "don't worry, its not deep further on!", no response from the frosted gentlemen walkers, oh well...

It was not far until we reached dryer land beside a wooden bridge which crosses over the badly swollen river. We followed the signs, walked up the hill and joined the trackbed once again the other side of the tunnel.

Continuing along a dryer walking surface we met a few other fellow walkers (should be tell them about the path, no!) It's not a far walk to Monsal Station. The up platform still remains together with a small hut (information on the station is displayed on a notice board on the hut)

Picture of Monsal Head station

Shortly after passing the station, the great Monsal Head viaduct greets us, with its impressive tall structure, the viaduct provides an excellent view into the railway of the past. Numerous informative information boards giving details information on the railway before and after it closed to passenger and freight services in the 1960's.

It was quiet cold, it was still snowing and became very windy when we were on the viaduct itself. Frozen puddles were dotted over the viaduct which did not obstruct the walk whatsoever. After a brief lunch break, we continued our walk by walking to the tunnel entrance, some pictures were taken and we made our way towards the steep path up towards road level beside the Monsal Head hotel (and public house)

The path up towards the road was closed for maintenance and detour notices were put up to inform walkers of the detour. It was a shame that no posters were put up before the detour!

Detour notices

Monsal tunnel entrance

Pictures of the Monsal Head viaduct

Monsal Head Hotel (the impressive viaduct not on the picture is to the right of this picture)

Monsal Head Hotel has a pub, which serves food and a good selection of real ales, draught lager, wines, spirits and soft drinks. It was brimming full of guests when we went in for a rewarding pint of lager, people eating a late lunch or juts having a relaxing pint or glass of wine after a walk (like us) The hotel also has a restaurant (starters prices between £4 and £6, main courses priced between £8 and £13 and with a tempting dessert menu too)

The Monsal Trail at Bakewell Station looking South

I could have stayed in the pub for hours, but we had a deadline and a Trent-Barton bus waiting for us at Bakewell town centre. On we go...

We have to take a detour once again, at the crossroads, we followed the sign posts through Little Longstone village, passing by another tempting public house and through a muddy (a very muddy) cow field. With mud up to our ankles, we walk through the field, we hear a loud "Moo", Is it the bull not liking two humans walking near his cows or was it just a cow getting two humans (who knows!) Shortly after, we are greeted by the trackbed once again.

Great Longstone (closed in 1962), The station buildings are 'Tudor style' buildings, built to serve the local village, which still survive. Originally called Thornbridge, after the nearby Hall, a residence of a one time Midland Railway Director, but near the village of Great Longstone.

Next to the station, a beautiful house lies, Thornbury Hall. Between the 12th and 18th centuries it was the seat of the Longsdon family and in 1859 Frederick Craven - rebuilt the house in Jacobean style and installed the William Morris/Burne-Jones window in the Great Hall. In 1945 Sheffield City Council ran thornbridge as a teacher training college, an educational centre and conference centre. In 1997 The Hunt family - started restoration work to the gardens and removed inappropriate additions to the house to reveal its proper proportions. Thornbridge Hall and its stunning gardens are available as an exclusive venue for events and as potential set locations for film, TV, and photography. The house and gardens are not open to the general public but private guided house & garden tours are available by request. Experience Thornbridge Hall – a magical house set in 100 acres of unmatched landscape in the heart of the Peak District National Park. The first phase of accommodation has now been completed and the Gardeners Cottage, North Lodge, the Moorfield, Norfolk, Ramberg, Belgrave, Ringinglow & India suites are now let to families sharing the Thornbridge experience & writing the New History of this magnificent country estate. Thornbridge is also available as an exclusive venue for weddings, events & meetings such as board meetings, away days, presentations, family get together or private parties.

Pictures of Great Longstone station

Continuing on we arrived at Hassop Station, a minor station on the line, built, it is said to serve the Duke of Devonshire at Chatsworth House, as the Duke of Rutland in Haddon Hall had a station at Bakewell. Closed for passengers early in 1942. The station is still in existence, used as a bookshop. We did not have time to explore the shelves and look for some railway related books...

Our last stop before the end of the walk at Bakewell station, where we passed by the former good sheds and yard. We shortly arrive at the end of the walk, Bakewell Station

Pictures of Bakewell station, the right picture was taken looking south to Coombs Viaduct

Bakewell; A major Peak District town, also famous for its tarts! The station buildings still survive, perched high above the town due to the alignment that the railway was forced to take. This station could be particularly busy, particularly on the famous Bakewell agricultural show day. Ridged canopies existed over the platforms, and a goods shed and cattle dock.

Conclusion

An very enjoyable walk. Little disappointing walking through cow fields on the last detour between Monsal Head and Great Longstone.

Public transport

Bakewell has an excellent supply of bus services; buses from other parts of the Peak District, Manchester, Leek, Buxton, The Potteries, Sheffield, Nottingham, Derby, Manchester, Chesterfield, Ashbourne and Macclesfield pass Bakewell. Summer Sundays a bus from Rochdale calls at Bakewell. For public transport information telephone traveline on 0870 6082608. Millers Dale is served by a less frequent service from Sheffield, Chesterfield and Buxton. The nearest railway station is at Derby or Buxton (then take a bus service)